Climbing Regulations

CLI 2 Individual categories

CLI 2.1 The Men’s and Women’s individual categories shall consist of a Qualification Round and a Final.

CLI 2.2 Qualification Round

CLI 2.2.1 All routes will be clearly marked on the climbing areas with colour-coded holds and a descriptive route card.  Route difficulty will be categorised as follows:

• Easy Climbs: 10 x Font 4-5+
• Medium Climbs: 10 x Font 6a-6c+
• Hard Climbs: 10 x Font 7a-7c

CLI 2.2.1 Each competitor will have up to three attempts to complete each of the 30 routes. These attempts do not need to be consecutive.

CLI 2.2.2 Competitors will be scored on each route as follows:

• Successful First Attempt: 10 points
• Successful Second Attempt: 7 points
• Successful Third Attempt: 4 points

On all routes, a single zone bonus point may be gained by reaching a certain marked zone hold in the event of no successful attempt(s).

CLI 2.2.3 Scorecards

CLI 2.2.3.1 If a digital scoring system is used, each Route Judge will have a device with access to a list of all competitors and will be responsible for recording each attempt a competitor makes on a route and whether they have successfully completed the route and if they have not successfully completed the route, if they have earnt a zone bonus point. Competitors will have access to their own scores via a web interface and are responsible for checking that each Route Judge has correctly recorded their number of attempts and whether they successfully completed a route or earnt a zone bonus point. Any disputes must be raised quickly with either the Route Judge or the Tournament Director. Competitors are encouraged to keep their own records if they are unfamiliar with digitised scoring as well as video evidence of their attempts that can be used to help resolve disputes.

CLI 2.2.3.2 If a paper-based system is used, each competitor will be responsible for their own scorecard. This card will display and record the number of attempts and score for each route. The scorecard must be handed in to the Route Judge prior to each attempt. At the end of the competition all competitors must check their scorecards and hand them in to the administration desk.

CLI 2.2.4 Each competitor is responsible for being present and prepared at the start of their session of competition, no extension to the session time will be allowed where a competitor is late.

CLI 2.2.5 Competitors must climb the routes using only the designated holds and features as outlined by the Route Judge. The use of any other hold or feature terminates the attempt.

CLI 2.2.6 Once the competitor’s body has completely left the floor, they are deemed to have started that attempt. Touching the floor again before reaching the finishing hold terminates the attempt.

CLI 2.2.7 Competitors must reach and hold the designated finishing hold in control and remain there until the Route Judge confirms a successful ascent. Dynos to touch or brief touches of the finishing hold terminates the attempt.

CLI 2.2.8 Competitors may ascend the wall beside the route in order to inspect or clean the designated holds.  Competitors may not touch any marked holds at any time.

CLI 2.2.9 At the end of their allocated session time, any competitor who is engaged in an attempt and whose body is completely off the ground may finish that attempt.

CLI 2.2.10 Problems or questions should be addressed to the Tournament Director via the Route Judge.

CLI 2.2.11 At the end of the Qualification Round, all competitors will be ranked based on the number of points they have earned (the higher the better). If any competitors are tied on points earned, the following tiebreakers shall be used:

• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of successful first attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of successful second attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of successful third attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of routes attempted (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of failed attempts (the higher the better).

CLI 2.3 Final

CLI 2.3.1 The six highest ranked individuals in the Qualification Round shall progress to the Final to determine their final ranking.

CLI 2.3.2 The Final will consist of four problems on the competition wall.

CLI 2.3.3  The "four minutes plus rule" shall apply, meaning that each competitor will have a 4-minute time limit to climb each of the four problems, with an allowance that any competitor who is engaged in an attempt and whose body is completely off the ground when the 4-minute time limit has expired may finish that attempt. There is no limit to the number of attempts a competitor can make during the time limit.

CLI 2.3.4 At the end of the Final competitors will be ranked based on the following criteria in the following order:

• Number of succesfully completed problems (the higher the better)
• Number of controlled zone holds (the higher the better)
• Number of attempts taken to achieve completed problems (the lower the better)
• Number of attempts taken to achieve controlled zone holds (the lower the better)

CLI 3 Team categories

CLI 3.1 There will be Men's and Women's team categories, with the results of each of these being calculated from performances in the Qualification Round of the respective individual category. An institution/Playing Entity's team for each category shall comprise of their three highest scoring individuals from the Qualification Round of the respective individual category, with their scores added together to create a team score.

CLI 3.2 If there are two or more individuals from an institution/Playing Entity finishing in a BUCS Medal winning position tied on points and this tie needs separating to work out who makes their three team members to receive a BUCS Medal:

• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of successful first attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of successful second attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of successful third attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of routes attempted (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The individuals tied will be ranked based on their number of failed attempts (the higher the better).

CLI 3.3 If two or more teams are tied on points, the tied teams shall be separated as follows:

• The teams tied will be ranked based on their number of successful first attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The teams tied will be ranked based on their number of successful second attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The teams tied will be ranked based on their number of successful third attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The teams tied will be ranked based on their number of routes attempted (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The teams tied will be ranked based on their number of failed attempts (the higher the better). If a tie still exists;
• The teams shall share the tied position.

CLI 4 Disputes at events In line with REG 7.7, should a dispute occur at an event, the event appeal panel for Climbing shall comprise of the Tournament Director and a BUCS Staff Member.