Climbing regulations for 2019 - 20 | Published 1 September

CLI i The BUCS Climbing Championships shall be conducted in accordance with the following BUCS sport specific regulations, the BUCS general regulations, and the rules of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Further event specific requirements, rules, and regulations will be contained within the entry and pre-event information for each Championship.

CLI ii In the event that these regulations contradict the BUCS general regulations, these BUCS sport specific regulations will supersede, unless specifically stated otherwise.

CLI iii In the event that these regulations contradict those of the rules of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), these BUCS sport specific regulations will supersede, unless specifically stated otherwise.


CLI 1 Championships BUCS will host annually a Climbing Championships. The programme shall include the events listed in Appendix 1 (‘BUCS Competition Offer and Associated BUCS Points’), subject to entry numbers. All competition specific event information will be available in the event entry information and pre-event information.

CLI 2 Marking All routes will be clearly marked on the climbing areas with colour-coded holds and a descriptive route card.  Route difficulty will be categorised as detailed below and competitors will be expected to attempt all 25 routes in their allocated zones.

9 Easy Climbs: 9 x Font 4-5+
8 Medium Climbs:  8 x Font 6a-6c+
8 Hard Climbs:  8 x Font 7a-7c
 
CLI 3 Scoring

Successful First Attempt: 10 points 
Successful Second Attempt: 7 points
Successful Third Attempt: 4 points 

CLI 4 Bonus points On all problems, a single bonus point may be gained by reaching a certain marked hold in the event of 3 failed attempts.  These extra points are then added to the final points score.

CLI 5 Scorecards Each competitor will be responsible for their own scorecard. This card will display and record the route number, attempt number and score for each route. The scorecard will be handed in to the route judge prior to each attempt. At the end of the competition all competitors must check their score cards and hand them in to the administration desk.

CLI 6 Each competitor is responsible for being present and prepared at the start of the competition, no extensions will be allowed.

CLI 7 Each competitor will have three attempts to complete the 25 routes. These attempts do not need to be consecutive.

CLI 8 Competitors must climb the routes using only the designated holds and features as outlined by the route judge. The use of any other hold or feature terminates the attempt.

CLI 9 Once the competitor’s body has completely left the floor, they are deemed to have started that attempt. Touching the floor again before reaching the finishing hold terminates the attempt.

CLI 10 Competitors must reach and hold the designated finishing hold in control and remain there until the route judge confirms a successful ascent. Dynos to touch or brief touches of the finishing hold terminates the attempt.

CLI 11 Competitors may ascend the wall beside the route in order to inspect or clean the designated holds.  Competitors may not touch any marked holds at any time.

CLI 12 At the end of the allocated time, any competitor who is engaged in an attempt and whose body is completely off the ground may finish that attempt.

CLI 13 Problems or questions should be addressed to the Tournament Director via the Route Judge.

CLI 14 Final Climb Off A Final Climb Off will be run in the Men’s and Women’s Individual Championships involving the four highest scoring individuals to determine the final top four finishing positions. The Climb Off will consist of four problems on the competition wall and will take place in accordance with IFSC Rule 8.

CLI 15 Team Championships The Men’s Overall Team and Women’s Overall Team Championships will be calculated using extracted results from the Individual Championships. Team placings shall be determined by the highest aggregate score for three competitors from the same institution/Playing Entity.

CLI 15.1 In the event of a tie on points, the organisers will determine the winners by the following:

  • Number first attempts completed successfully;
  • Number of routes completed;
  • Number of routes attempted;
  • Number of failed attempts.

CLI 16 Disputes at events In line with REG 7.7, should a dispute occur at an event, the event appeal panel for Climbing shall comprise of the Tournament Director and a BUCS Staff Member.

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